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Face oils get lumped together in a lot of skincare content, but the actual fatty acid composition of a given oil determines how it behaves on skin — how quickly it absorbs, how likely it is to feel heavy or contribute to congestion, and which skin types it genuinely suits. Squalane, rosehip, and argan are three of the most common oils in this category, and they're meaningfully different from each other on all three counts.
Face Oils Are Not Interchangeable
Plant and botanical oils are broadly classified by their dominant fatty acid — linoleic acid (an omega-6 fatty acid) versus oleic acid (an omega-9 fatty acid) being the most relevant distinction for skincare purposes. Linoleic-acid-dominant oils tend to be lighter, absorb faster, and are generally better tolerated by oily and acne-prone skin, since sebum in acne-prone skin has been observed to be relatively linoleic-acid-deficient. Oleic-acid-dominant oils tend to be heavier, richer, and more occlusive — often better suited to very dry skin, but more likely to feel heavy or contribute to congestion for those with oily or acne-prone skin. Choosing an oil based on this fatty acid profile, rather than just its marketing positioning, is the more reliable way to match a facial oil to your actual skin type.
Squalane: The Universally Tolerated Option
Squalane (the stable, hydrogenated form of squalene, a lipid your skin naturally produces) is generally the most universally tolerated facial oil on the market, largely because it closely mimics skin's own sebum composition. It absorbs faster than heavier oils like argan or marula, has a very low comedogenicity rating, and works well layered under other products without leaving a heavy residue. Most squalane sold in skincare today is plant-derived (commonly from sugarcane or olives) rather than shark-derived, which was the original commercial source before more sustainable plant-based production became standard.
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Editor's Product Picks
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The Ordinary 100% Plant-Derived Squalane Oil
~$8–$10
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The Ordinary 100% Organic Cold-Pressed Rose Hip Seed Oil
~$10–$12
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Biossance Squalane + Vitamin C Rose Oil
~$74
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Sunday Riley Juno Antioxidant + Superfood Face Oil
~$72
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Rosehip and the Linoleic Acid Argument
Rosehip seed oil is relatively high in linoleic acid alongside vitamin A precursors (retinoic acid esters) and vitamin C, which is the basis for its popular positioning as a lightweight option with some crossover benefit to retinoid-adjacent skin concerns like texture and tone. It's genuinely lighter and faster-absorbing than heavier oleic-dominant oils, making it a reasonable pick for combination or acne-prone skin that still wants an oil in their routine, though it's worth noting the vitamin A content in rosehip oil is present in far smaller, less standardized amounts than in an actual retinoid product — it shouldn't be relied on as a retinol substitute.
Argan and Heavier, Oleic-Rich Oils
Argan oil is more oleic-acid-forward than rosehip or squalane, giving it a richer, more cushioning feel on skin along with genuinely strong emollient properties — a good fit for very dry, mature, or climate-stressed skin that wants a heavier occlusive layer, but more likely to feel heavy or sit on top of the skin for those with oily or combination skin types. Argan oil's vitamin E content also gives it reasonable antioxidant properties, though — as with most oils marketed on antioxidant content — this is a secondary benefit rather than the primary reason to reach for it over a dedicated antioxidant serum.
Where Oils Actually Fit in a Routine
Face oils are generally best used as the final step in a PM routine, applied over water-based serums and moisturizer rather than under them — oil forms a barrier that can block water-based products from absorbing if applied first. They're not a substitute for a moisturizer's humectant ingredients (like hyaluronic acid or glycerin), since oils don't draw in water themselves; they work best paired with a humectant-containing product underneath, sealing in that hydration rather than providing it directly. For daytime use, oils generally shouldn't replace SPF, and applying oil directly under sunscreen can, in some cases, affect how evenly the sunscreen sits on skin — using oils as a PM-only step avoids this complication entirely.
Top Picks Ranked
The Ordinary 100% Plant-Derived Squalane Oil (~$8–$10) is the best budget entry point into the category — a single-ingredient, lightweight, universally tolerated squalane oil at one of the lowest prices available for the ingredient.
The Ordinary 100% Organic Cold-Pressed Rose Hip Seed Oil (~$10–$12) pairs a genuinely high linoleic acid content with vitamin A precursors at a similarly low price point, a strong pick for combination or acne-prone skin wanting a lighter oil.
Biossance Squalane + Vitamin C Rose Oil (~$74) combines squalane with a stable vitamin C derivative and rose extract for a brightening-focused mid-to-premium option, best suited to those wanting an antioxidant boost alongside the lightweight squalane base.
Sunday Riley Juno Antioxidant + Superfood Face Oil (~$72) leans further into a multi-oil antioxidant blend (including blue tansy and other botanical extracts) for a richer sensory experience, positioned toward those who want a more elaborate, spa-like oil rather than a single-ingredient formula.
Josie Maran 100% Pure Argan Oil (~$48 for 1.7oz) is the best pick specifically for very dry or mature skin wanting a heavier, richer, single-ingredient oleic-forward oil without added fragrance or a long ingredient list.
Frequently Asked Questions
What's the difference between squalane, rosehip, and argan oil?+
Squalane closely mimics skin's own sebum and is the lightest, most universally tolerated of the three. Rosehip is linoleic-acid-dominant, making it lighter and better suited to oily or acne-prone skin, with added vitamin A precursors. Argan is oleic-acid-dominant, making it heavier and richer — better for very dry or mature skin, but more likely to feel congesting on oily skin.
Should face oil go before or after moisturizer?+
After. Oil forms a barrier that can block water-based products from absorbing if applied first, so the standard order is water-based serums, then moisturizer, then oil as the final sealing step — typically in a PM routine.
Can face oil replace my moisturizer?+
Not fully — oils don't draw water into skin the way humectants (like hyaluronic acid or glycerin) do, so they work best layered over a moisturizer or humectant serum to seal in hydration rather than used as a standalone replacement for one.
Author
Glowstice Editorial
The Glowstice editorial team consists of skincare researchers, cosmetic chemists, and science writers dedicated to translating peer-reviewed dermatology into practical guidance for curious consumers.
